Monday, March 4, 2013
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2013 collection is a collaboration between artist Katerina Jebb, the Musée Galliera– Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris and Acne Studios. For this reason the collection was shown in Paris instead of London for the first time. The focus of the collection was to make the invisible visible and the unwearable wearable, exploring fashion from a different angle, decontextualize it and make history visible. The collection was formed around the historical garments from Musée Galliera’s remarkable archive which have been reinterpreted and will now be worn again. Katerina Jebb created artworks by scanning historical garments from the museum’s archive and using them to construct photomontages, mostly of the inside of the garments. The inside is usually unseen, obscure and not meant to be displayed. And the result of revealing the inside of the garments is unexpected, almost intimate and brutally honest. Katerina Jebb's artworks are abstract interpretations, but show a respectful awareness of history and handicraft. The photomontages were used as prints that were shown on extremely long dresses, blazers, coats and wide-legged trousers. The Acne team played with construction and deconstruction, showing painted-on cut lines as decoration on some of the pieces. Volume was also a really big thing in this collection with oversize silhouettes that were emphasized with layering and flowing fabrics. Patches of metallic leather were used for a surprising contrast on otherwise very clean pieces. The looks were accessorized with box shaped clutches and of course very cutting-edge footwear. According to Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson it's been a privilege to collaborate with an artist like Katerina. The Acne team felt that this significant part of fashion history that is preserved in the Musée Galliera’s archive deserves to be recognised and shared within a modern cultural context. The collaboration also includes a men's capsule that also has been shown with the womenswear in Paris.