Sunday, February 7, 2010

Michalsky StyleNite

During Berlin Fashion Week this January Michael Michalsky launched his new show concept - the MICHALSKY StyleNite - to offer German designers a new type of stage. For the first time he opened his fashion show to the labels Kaviar Gauche and Lala Berlin. Ever since Berlin Fashion Week started in 2007 Michalsky managed to surprise the audience with unconventional locations and complex sceneries. The MICHALSKY StyleNite combines fashion shows with music highlights (this time a performance by Spandau Ballett) and in addition works as a platform for visitors to exchange and discuss ideas, make new contacts and experience the products first hand thus offering the audience an evening richer in content and of higher quality than the typical 15-minute catwalk event.

So far so good now we can go over to talk about the shown fall/winter 2010 collections.
Lala Berlin was first in line and opened the show with their collection themed 'Viva la revolución (d'amor)' that focuses on solidarity. Designer Leyla Piedayesh's inspiration were the labour forces who's only weapon is creative energy. The looks were kept in different shades of grey and black with a few pieces in amber serving as a colour highlight. Oversized cardigans and bomber jackets are combined with loose fitting, glittery, transparent leggings. Dresses come in different lenghts with straps attached that remind of suspenders. The glossy fabrics add extra glamour and combined with the knit pieces complete the modern, urban look.

The second show of the night was the one of Kaviar Gauche who presented their collection named 'Stripped'. Before the models came out there was a performance by Bella Berlin a performance artist who invented the style-movement 'Berlinesque' that revives the self-indulgent Golden Twenties of the city. The artist was also the inspiration for designers Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl who presented clothes that resemble past and future. Emphasised shoulders are the key element on sequined tuxedos and sharp tailored tailcoats - have to admit that sometimes I felt a little too much reminded of Balmain. Shimmering details dominate the collection in form of sparkling tops and dresses as well as sexy overknee boots. The waist is accentuated with belts for a female silhouette and pieces with feathery fringes soften the look. Colours are restricted to black, grey and silver.

And last but not least came Michael Michalsky's collection that was inspired by Berlin artist Heinrich Zille's work, especially his books 'Mein Milljöh' and 'Kinder der Straße'. The artist is best known for his funny drawings that capture the characteristics of the stereotypes living in Berlin. The collection is about different tailoring details taken from diverse styles like maids clothes, uniforms, men's workwear and upper-class tailoring of Berlin's 'Gründerzeit' past when the city was a rising metropolis that are combined with sportswear details to fit in the 21st century. The womenswear included tailored jackets combined with comfy balloon dresses, wide pants and overalls make a casual yet elegant look. The power shoulder also played a part here in form of voluminous blouses that are worn with high-waisted skirts. Lovely details like pussy bows and emphasised waists add a very feminine touch. Most of the menswear looks are variatons of tailored jackets over hooded sweaters with wide, comfy pants often tucked in laced boots. As we're used to with Michalsky, the complete collection can easily be transferred from the runway to the streets which is probably the biggest strength of the designer and makes his show one of the most - if not the most - anticipated shows at Berlin Fashion Weeks.